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‘Best performances’ for Katie Lambert in Ten Sleep in the US, after her first plan

‘I trained my 43 year-old butt off for 10 weeks. My goal was to onsight as much as possible and only pick up a few shorter redpoint projects

….The plan you made for me worked wonders!

As of now in the last 4 weeks I've climbed 9 x 5.13s (F7c+), half onsight, half done within a couple of tries and one 14- (F8b/+). By far one of my best performance trips right out of the gate.’

Katie Lambert


Ultimate 5.14c / 8c+ send for Katie Lambert after her second plan

Neil’s comment: ‘Huge congratulations to Katie for sending this total gem of a project, High Country Love. When she first tried the route, Katie couldn’t do the V10 crux and she described the level of endurance she would need for the upper part as ‘mind boggling’. For this reason, I’m particularly pleased that things came together for her after the super-specific plan that tailored for her.’ : )

‘If anyone is on the look out for customised training for climbing - be it for overall gains or something specific, I thoroughly recommend Neil Gresham. With decades of training and climbing experience, his plans are top-notch, affordable and well worth it.’

Katie Lambert 05.24.

@katiebirdlambert sending High Country Love 5.14c / 8c+ after her second training plan.


Dan Watson keeping the standards up in Albarracin after a 16 week plan.

Dan Watson - busy with a young family but bouldering hard after a 16 week plan

‘Hi Neil, Thank you for the training plan ….I managed to stick to the climbing sessions very closely and found the way you structured them throughout the plan to work really well and by the end I really did feel like I was peaking for the trip.

I ended the 8 climbing days with 7 x 7th grade problems ticked, one of them (Zarzamora Sit 7b+) being equal to the hardest grade I have ever climbed, but more importantly being a climb I have wanted to do for years.

I do not think I would have been able to climb as much or as well, without your plan.’

Dan Watson 09.24.

 
 
 

Omar Haque breaks the 8a barrier with an ascent of Raindogs at Malham after following Neil’s plan. Photos: @mf_climb

Omar Haque leaps from 7b to 8a after a targeted plan

When Omar first approached Neil in 2024, his goal of climbing 8a seemed, potentially, very ambitious seeing as he’d managed a few 7bs and was working on a 7c. But Neil identified his potential and set Omar a plan, which was geared very specifically to his dream project, Raindogs at Malham Cove, UK. It included extra focus on undercuts and compression moves and the endurance work was centred around 4x4 boulder intervals in the same style as the route.

Omar’s ascent was all the more impressive because he lives in London, so he had to train before work and travel long distances for the route. His comment:

‘Getting to Canary Wharf for 6am to train, and to my desk by 07.30, was the hard part ….but it all came together really well. Thanks for your help.’

Omar Haque 05.25.

Huge congratulations to Omar from Neil and the team!


Jonas Kempf destroys former nemesis routes after his plan


’A quick note on how things went after my last plan…..

….In a word, great! I’m feeling stronger than ever!

Towards late summer I really started finding my stride and had a string of successes that I’m proud of - mostly trad and sport lines in the 5.11b/c range. I returned to several routes in the Shawagunks that I struggled with before and onsighted almost all of them. I’m also hitting the indoor climbing performance goals that you set for me. So, definite improvement on my end!

The attached photo is of Coexistence (5.10+ officially…the Gunks are stiff!!). Sincerely, I felt much better than my facial expression suggests!’

Jonas Kempf 11.24.

Jonas Kempf on Coexistence, 5.10d in the Shawagunks.


Rebecca Hodge breaking the 7a barrier in Kalymnos after her 12 week plan.

First 7a for Rebecca Hodge after a 12 week plan

After week 5 of the plan:

‘I managed to hit my pull up target (7 reps, up from 4) and whilst this isn’t really a monumental achievement, I’m really pleased that I managed to gain that much more strength in such a short space of time! I then then completed the endurance phase and got my first 7a indoors!!”

From Kalymnos:

‘..we headed up to Milianos where I redpointed Hornets a-go-go 7a, on my second attempt!! I felt super strong and my endurance felt great.

Thank you for making that possible! I’m still surprised by how much progress I made so quickly.’

Rebecca Hodge 05.23.

 
 
 

Thanushan Ravishankar breaks the V7 barrier after 6 weeks

 

‘I have another 2 weeks left and I’ve already sent a bunch of V6s and my first V7. Most have been on the Kilter board but I wanted to get better at climbing on steep angles from the beginning so it’s been a success.

….Super pleased with the results.’

Thanushan Ravishankar 02.23.


Victor Blondel surpasses goals and jumps 2 sport grades in 6 weeks

 

‘Regarding bouldering, I already made some progress. Remember the red boulders I told you about in my gym, that I couldn't do, not even the start? Well I managed to top out a few, which is really cool.

 

4 days ago I had a free morning and jumped on the 7a. Did it first go! So, I ticked my first 7a indoor route in only 2 sessions and 4-5 tries. ….That’s awesome, especially because our goal for the plan was for me to redpoint 6c+ and onsight 6c (which I also did).’ Thanks again for your plan….

…..really clear and simple and that's what I needed.’ 

Victor Blondel – report 2: 04.23


David Phillip realising that he isn’t pumped after his 16 week plan.

David Phillips’ ‘genuine breakthrough moment’…..

 

‘This year I feel like I’ve exploded onto the rock at a level beyond. I’m feeling stronger, more robust and am totally niggle-free. My general benchmarks are through the roof! I can now hold a 1-arm lock off for 9 seconds on each arm (up from 3-4 seconds) and a front lever for 9 secs (up from 2-3 seconds).

Most importantly though have been the gains I’ve made in endurance, since this is where I've always struggled. I am consistently onsighting 7a indoors and outdoors (my previous redpoint grade). This week I onsighted a 40m 7a at a local ‘old school’ crag with the crux moves right at the top. It went down after a real fight - I was on it for ages, hanging around on steep jugs desperately trying to figure out the crux sequence and there’s no way I could have done that before. I've also sent 7a+ and 7b (first redpoint) at a local crag, where previously I’d found the routes really hard. This was a genuine breakthrough moment. When I dogged up to put the draws in, I was pretty sure I would be spending a few sessions on it, yet within a couple of hours it was in the bag!

Beyond the grades though, I feel like I’ve broken through a mental barrier and find myself getting on routes with the confidence to know I can just keep going.’

David Phillips 04.23.

 
 
 

Jo Heng gunning for V8. Photos: @land_kirst & Tom Haigh

Jo Heng’s journey to slay her V8 mega-project (via 3 training plans)

After plan 1:

‘I'm pleased to report that this training round has be going pretty well so far. …I ticked my first V7 on the Kilter yesterday at 50 degrees (not an angle I would ever willingly choose).

I think you pitched the training program perfectly for my needs and motivation and psych is high’.

After plan 2:

I had my first day on rock this weekend and managed to send one of my projects! It’s a roofy V7 and I was pretty close in June but struggled with keeping tension for a particularly long reach. The biggest difference was that my core tension was much, much better! Usually, I expect to get tired after the thuggy crux move, but I had much more juice left in the tank than I would normally. 

I definitely put the quick send down to your training program. 100%.’ 

(07.23)


Jo Heng reports again after plan 3:

‘I sent my V8 project!! Aptly named To Hate to Love. I knew after all the training that I was stronger and had more stamina but after falling at the same move for so long, there was also a huge mental barrier to overcome. 

It was a glorious feeling to stand atop that boulder after two years working on it. So just wanted to thank you for all the training programs.

You have been, and continue to be, a huge inspiration to me.  Thank you for giving me so many tools and good habits to help me continue to push my bouldering limits into my 40s and beyond.’

Jo Heng 03.24 


First E3 for Jay Whiting after a 16 week trad-focussed plan

Training for trad climbing requires a very different approach, with a skew towards aerobic endurance and a high emphasis on recovering on the wall. When Jay approached Neil he was operating steadily at E1 and climbing E2s and Neil set him a plan which was aimed at helping him to break the next level.

‘The plan really was ace. Completely obliterated my onsight grade!’ 

Jay Whiting 09.23. 

 
 
 

Ferdia Earle climbing Rising Son E8 6c in North Wales after her second training plan.

Ferdia Earle achieves mega E8 trad goal after ‘low volume’ training plan

 

Neil’s comment: ‘Ferdia is one of those climbers who doesn’t respond well to high volumes of training, so we took a strategic approach. Her plans were very much about high quality sessions interspersed with good recovery. So often we see climbers doing too much and burning out, yet in Ferdia’s case, less was undoubtedly more. Ferdia is a talented trad climber, so it was all about making sure that she felt fit, strong and above all, fresh and energetic when she reached the starting line.’

‘I've felt great doing this plan. Joints feel really stable and I'm moving much better. I'm probably approaching the strongest / fittest I've been but without knackering myself in the process like I used to!  I've managed a couple of 7bish problems outdoors in a couple of sessions including The Pinch at Sheep Pen. Big, knacky board-style move off a pinch / crimps with poor feet. Very anti-style.

Really noticing improvements this time and had a couple of moments of really surprising myself.’ 

Ferdia Earle 01.23.


2-grade leaps in 3 disciplines after 6 weeks for Cris Salerma:

 

Shortly after after completing his 6 week training plan, Cris jumped from V2 to V5 in bouldering, 6a to 6b in sport climbing and VD to VS in trad.

 

“I'm well chuffed with my progress in all 3 types of climbing. Thanks so much for creating such an effective training plan for climbers like me.”

 

Salerma 03.22

Cris Salerma pushes up to VS on Peak grit after his training plan.


Igor Milenkovic sending his first 7a+, Aurora 7a+ in Grdoba, Serbia.

‘Hardest 7a’ then first 7a+ for Igor Milenkovic after a 12 week plan

‘Hi Neil, quick mid plan update. I’m starting the 3rd week of strength phase.

Yesterday I was outside climbing and I sent the hardest 7a sport route I ever tried.

But the thing that really amazed me is the bouldery start of the route. Previously I struggled with the first move, since it's a jump from two crimps, to a bad sloper and it was a low percentage move (for me), but yesterday that part was the easiest part of the route, I did it statically with almost no effort. 

Hopefully more gains are on the way. :) I can't wait to finish the entire program.’

Igor Milenkovic 11.22

 
 
 

Jordan Frier blows it out of the water on his first 8a (La Bandida), Chulila by Jez @jbmountainskills

Jordan Frier leaps to from 7b+ to 8a, then onsights 7b+ after a 6 week plan!

Neil’s comment: ‘This is one of those stories that you wouldn’t believe unless it was accompanied by a name, a pic and photographer to give evidence! Of course, I want everyone who follows my plans to improve but I certainly don’t expect anything like this!’

‘I finished the plan and I’m now in Spain! I’m feeling very strong and my endurance is getting good - I can now recover on semi small holds which is ace! I just onsighted my first 7b today and am now going to see if I can tick off a few 7c’s quickly….’ – report 1: 12.22


‘Another quick one from me. I just climbed my second 7c today, (Un dia llamado milagro). I had one good burn and got to the crux on the onsight attempt, managed to figure my beta for it pretty quickly, then climbed it clean on my second attempt! – report 2: 12.22

‘I don’t mean to be spamming you but I just wanted to let you know how grateful I am for your training plan! After climbing the 7c so fast, I was persuaded by my friends to try the 8a that they were projecting, La Bandida. I tried it 3 times yesterday then went back today, warmed up bolt-to-bolt, then sent it on my 5th try in total, and second proper redpoint burn.

I am feeling so strong and seemed to have finally unlocked the ability to try hard and climb super well!

Jordan Frier 1.23


Stronger, fitter, more confident and first 6c+ o/s for Michal Palas after 12 weeks

‘I feel like there was a significant improvement in many aspects of my climbing…..

my fingers and shoulders feel very resilient and super healthy. I feel significantly stronger and more confident doing long, bouldery moves in the crux sections of routes. There was a noticeable improvement in all types of endurance and I learned to push through pump and commit more while onsighting (I onsighted my first 6c+ indoors). I generally I feel much more confident on all styles of route and am enjoying climbs that I would have avoided before. I set a rather conservative plan for our trip to climb two 7a routes …still, I managed to redpoint three.

Overall, it was an amazing completion of the training block.’ 

 Michal Palas 12.22

Michal Palas finding new form after his personalised training plan.


Alisha Garside ‘getting the fight back’ during her 16 week plan

2 new boulder grades and high psych for Alisha Garside

 

‘The training yesterday…WHAT!! I had the best session! It was honestly amazing to have to try and flash everything …the fight near the end to try and keep perfect technique. I felt I’d been lacking that in my sessions but since I had to follow the plan, I had to dig a little deeper. I missed that feeling so much and now it’s back. Felt awesome to be totally immersed in the training. Tbh, I didn’t even notice a single other human being the entire session!

You know before I started your training plan like a month ago it would take me all session projecting a 7a, just to ‘maybe’ send it if I was lucky, and I couldn’t get close on a 7a+, and now I can pretty easily on-sight so many 7a+s in one session

I honestly can’t tell you how healthy I feel since doing this! My sleep schedule has pretty much fixed itself, I’m not excessively tired anymore, the training has felt amazing the whole way through it! I am shocked but not surprised!!

I fell asleep thinking about it. My partner, family & friends are frankly bored of hearing about it!’

Alisha Garside 03.23.

 
 
 

Shuyuan breaks into new trad ground after her training plan.

Epic trad sends for Suyuan Liu after a 12 week plan

 

‘The training program was quite challenging in the beginning but I managed to stick to the prescribed schedule and still have 2.5 weeks left... My finger strength and endurance have improved noticeably and I have onsighted two 5.11a/b trad routes and also led a 5.12.

None of this could’ve happened without the training program.’

 

Shuyuan Liu 06.22


Dream first 8a for Steph Ward after her 16 week training plan

 

‘Just wanted to let you know I ticked my first 8a yesterday!  It feels a bit surreal- climbing an 8a has been a bit of dream/lifetime goal!

I'm sure a new ambition will fill that space soon.... and there is an 8b direct start to Dark Energy ;)

Very chuffed that the stuff I managed to do from the plan paid off! Thanks.’ 

 

Steph Ward 09.21

Steph Ward relaxes after the big send.


V5 to V7 and first comp win for Katy Affleck after 2 plans

 

During her first plan, Katie’s deadhang increased from 3s on 20mm to 6s on 15mm, pull-ups went from 0 to 1.5 and leg-raises went from 3 to 7.  

‘I sent a V6 today in about 8 goes!

….I think this is the breakthrough you were talking about.’

‘Plan 2 is going well! It’s harder to stay consistent during the Uni term but I’m ‘still feeling much stronger. I climbed a V7 at my home gym, and finally broke into the 6c routes. Thanks.’ 02.23.

……a couple weeks later I came first at the INDY open comp, my first win! …..Thanks, 

 Katy Affleck 07.23.

 
 
 

Joe Tomlinson jumps a grade in projects and onsighting after 12 weeks

‘Absolutely buzzing I’ve never felt so strong…..

….I sent a few 7bs at Malham, (including Seventh Aardvark). I got to a point where I was able to onsight 7a every session. Very happy with that.

Many thanks again for the awesome programming.’

 Joseph Tomlinson – 07.21 


Strength gains help Moses Bassett to develop a new bouldering area in Tasmania….

‘I've completed my training plan and really enjoyed it again! My base level strength gains seem to have been good, especially finger strength. My 7-sec max-weight hang has gone from +27kg to +37.5kg! ….I've just spent two weeks at the new boulder area and got a lot done.

….I'm feeling strong and fit! I've already ticked 2 nemesis routes and a nemesis boulder.

Been trying all three on and off for about 3 years now, all very different and not at all my normal strengths but this time round I ticked them all in a day! Thanks again and I'll be in touch when I'm ready for another training period.’ 

 

Moses Bassett 09.22

Moses Bassett @mobass77 puts the training to good use on another new boulder in Taz.


Quim Sanchez sends From Sunshine to Darkness 7c in Magic Wood after his training plan.

First 7c boulders for Quim Sanchez after a 16 week plan

 

‘Things are going well over here, this summer I managed to climb two 7c boulders in Magic Wood

….I feel like my shape is pretty good.

…I have one more 7c that I hope I'll be able to finish soon (From Sunshine to Darkness). On Monday I'm starting a new job and my 1-month break will be over. I hope I can finish it before then.

…..Update: just got my project!’

Quim Sanchez 09.22

 
 
 

Astrid Southam on a ‘super positive trajectory’ from 6c+ to 7b.

Astrid Southam works weaknesses and jump from 6c+ to 7b flash after 2 plans. 

‘Thank you so much for this training plan, it has been a real pleasure to have some structure while I am in the final stages of my studies. In terms of results, I did go out last weekend for a day trip and flashed 7a+ for the first time (best flash before that was 6c+), and then had an exceptional (for me) attempt on a 7b+, where I fell a couple of moves from the top. Both of these were very unexpected, so I'm really excited about it.’  Report 1: 08.22

‘I thought I'd give you an update: I managed to send a couple of blocs during the power phase that would definitely have been beyond me six months ago. ….The fingerboard is where I've seen the most progress (eg. half-crimp max-hangs from +12kg to +20kg). I was able to go on a short trip to Spain this month. I spent 3 days climbing (in a row) and flashed 7b (a new PB) and did a 7b+ on the 3rd go (new PB).

The 7b flash was not in my style, which is really cool, as I've struggled a lot with burlier climbing and it feels like a confirmation that I'm addressing my weaknesses. Thank you so much for helping me improve and continue on a super positive trajectory.

….this adaptive approach to training is working and I can't express how grateful I am for the big part you play in this.’

 Astrid Southam – report 2: 02.23


Huge strength gains for Jo Newton as she trains for the Para World Cup

‘Interesting! At the age of 54, this is the first time in my life that I’ve followed a structured programme.  I have completed Phase 1 (2 rest days now – woo hoo!!) and have increased from doing 1 fingertip pull-up (20mm) to doing 6. I’d say that was some improvement. My recovery has also improved rather than flat-lining.

Headline is that I went from not being able to hold bodyweight on Beastmaker 15mm slots to being able to deadhang, half crimped for 8 sec with no weight assist. It felt good but obviously I don’t know what improvement you normally see.

Thanks! Your training programme is awesome.’

Jo Newton 03.21

Jo Newton qualifies at the Para Worlds in Innsbruck after making major strength gains. Photo: Sam Pratt


John Watt sends Mainliner 5.14a / 8b+

John Watt sends his first 8b+, Mainliner after a targeted ‘13d to 14a plan’

‘I thought I should let you know that I sent Mainliner 14a (8b+) on Saturday. A long journey has come to a conclusion! Thank you so much for the training plan….

…def getting through a couple of the training cycles last year gave me the extra strength I needed.

Open 3-finger and pinch strength in particular, as well as hip flexibility. 

No doubt will get inspired again and will be in touch for a new program.’

 

John Watt – report 2 02.22

 
 
 

David Schurr breaks through to 7a after an 8 week plan

 

‘After completing Neil's plan, I achieved my goal of leading 7a! I led Jim Grin at Troller's Gill on my first redpoint attempt after top-roping it just once!

I highly recommend doing the benchmarking tests on Neil's website and ordering yourself a plan!

Following this training plan has immediately improved my climbing grade.

It also greatly increased my knowledge of training for climbing. I understand more deeply the mechanics of specified training for Strength, Endurance, Conditioning, and Flexibility/mobility. Neil's guidance has really helped me to maintain fitness and stay psyched for the coming season!’

 

David Shurr @davidshurr 05.21


Liucija Latanauskaite achieves goal of sport 7c after 2 plans

 

‘This was my first training plan, so it was very useful to see what I might have been missing with my own “training plans”. I am now in El Chorro in Spain and have already beaten my flash grade!

I definitely attribute it to the training and how much strength (and confidence!) it has given me.

I will be here for a few more weeks and planning to project something hard, hopefully beating personal best redpoint grade too, which I feel I have in me.’

 Report 1: 01.21.

‘I first wanted to thank you for your training plan I followed last year, which I believed helped me complete my goal of sending my hardest sport route back then in Spain - 7c - I did even two in fact!’

Liucija Latanauskaite 03.22


Inch by inch it’s a cinch. Marc Marazzi works towards those big gains.

Marc Marazzi ‘excedes expectations’ after 6 weeks

 

‘Just to update you with my benchmarks: deadhang on the Beastmaker 20mms has gone from 2 seconds to 10 seconds and slopers have gone from 0 seconds to 5 seconds! ….I also felt an improvement when I was bouldering - one example was a V6 with small crimps and a sit-start. I couldn't even pull on to this previously and on my first attempt since training, I got to the final hold.

My progress has exceeded my expectations, especially with finger strength.’

 

Marc Marazzi 01.21

 
 
 

Smiles all-round after conquering the mighty Fiesta Del Biceps 7a, Riglos.

Dream tick of Fiesta del Biceps for Mark Hetherington after a targeted plan

 

‘Fiesta del Biceps (multipitch 7a in Riglos) had been on my bucket list of ‘must do routes’ for quite a while. I had heard great things about it from friends and seen many inspiring pictures, but one in particular frightened me – was it really that steep!? I hatched a plan with my friend Ian to attempt it over a long weekend in March 20 and contacted Neil, who was keen to help. He came up with a well-crafted personalised plan to prepare us for the pumpy nature of the route. The plan was tough and exhausting at times, with conditioning exercises combined with blocks of routes and circuits, but that picture kept us going! When the day came, we felt prepared and confident as a result of the training and managed to onsight all the pitches, which made all the training so worthwhile.

‘It was motivating to have a goal to focus on over the winter and the training plan ultimately delivered.’

Mark Hetherington 03.20


Martin Sadler flashes first 7a after a 16 week plan

(Report 1) ‘I've now done the first cycle of strength. I've noticed I can do some routes comfortably that I struggled on before. Either holds are getting bigger or fingers are getting stronger! I'm really glad that I signed up for the plan and for how you tailored it to my timescales and facilities.’ 

(Report 2) An update from a happy climber: Are you ready to hear about me flashing a 7a? Wow. I chose one that would suit me, broke it down, figuring 2 places where I might get a rest. I gave myself a real good talking to about digging in and trusting my technique and my ability to hold small edges and recover.  My mantra at the moment is "Come on Sadler!" with an underlying "What would Neil say?"

So I flashed the blooming thing, heart racing, big smile on my face. My friends teased me saying it obviously couldn't be 7a, but then neither of them got close. 

The progress is telling, I have crossed that stage of the journey and I really, really enjoyed the climbing and the feeling of improvement.'

 

Martin Sadler – report 2: 07.21

Model student, Martin Sadler, does the work then gets the results!


Improvements all-round and first 6b+ onsight for Artur Pasiek after 8 weeks

‘My results were very impressive ….as follows: Pull ups: from 10 to 13, leg raises from 8 to 14, deadhang max from 11 secs to 17 seconds! Boulders, I've now completed one of the V5s! Toprope, I did 6c+ - never did that grade before! I have lead 6b+ and it was an onsight! Amazing! So as you can see improvements in all areas.

Still can't believe what an impact the training had! Many, many thanks.’

 

Artur Pasiek 04.21

 
 
 

Too old to improve?? ….Not if you’re Glenn-Robert Johnsen, who jumped 2 grades, aged 53, after a 16 week plan

 

‘Hi Neil. I have completed your 16 weeks plan for me and I'm stronger. I haven’t tested outside on real rock yet, but I am sure it has had an effect. The routes indoor feels easier. I have climbed an 8a in 2 parts and have done a 7c. On the training goals I have checked all the boxes : )

(Max 13mm deadhang: 10s+15kg, 1RM pull-up + 40kg, 1 arm lock-off L/R: 12s, front-lever: 5s! 

…..Not bad for an old man (53)!’

Glenn-Robert Johnsen 04.23.


Jim McCormick smashes benchmarks and jumps a boulder grade after 12 weeks

 

‘Hey Neil, just to say a HUGE thank you for the plan.

I finished last week and I'm climbing at my best.

I've met nearly all the goals - I can hang for 12s with half crimp (more than double when I started), pull-ups have gone from 4 to 8 with good form and leg-raises from 13 to 17. I'm consistently flashing V3 (up from V2) and flash PB at V4 (up from V3).

It's been a great experience and a range of emotions - from massive self-doubt, feeling like I wasn't progressing or exhausted to having big jumps in performance unexpectedly.

The biggest difference is consistency - I feel consistently stronger.

I had loads of fun, the base block had a great intensity, I enjoyed the structure of training in block 2, STRUGGLED in the last two weeks of block 3 but just about made it to the end, and felt a huge leap in ability in the peaking / tapering phase. 


I'm very appreciative for how much happier I've felt climbing in general. I feel fitter than ever and I've made progress on some of the weakest aspects of my climbing.’


James McCormick 5.23.

Jim McCormick, ‘fitter than ever’ after 12 weeks.


Ryan Lister sending 7b in Massara, Spain after his training plan.

Ryan Lister hits bouldering PBs and first sport 7b after a 6 week plan


‘I definitely feel stronger now……

I sent two 6c boulders in a session having never done this grade inside before, so pretty stoked on that. For the main goal of 7b I chose Massara in Catalonia. I was super close on the second go but dropped the dynamic move at the last bolt. On my third go I got it and felt so solid on it, getting to the rests not even feeling like I needed to rest, just needing to compose myself. Thanks again for the training plan.’

 

Ryan Lister 05.23.

 
 
 

Chris Russell takeing advantage of his finger-strength gains in Thailand.

Finger strength ‘doubles’ for Chris Russell during a 12 week plan 

‘Firstly, your training program was great!

I enjoyed the structure, and seeing progress with my workouts was really motivating.

Before the program my max-time deadhang on the 15mm edge was 20 secs (and this felt tough). I measured this at the end of the max strength phase and managed 40 secs!

I squeezed in a Tonsai trip to try Tidal Wave. I tried this route back in Feb and was way off. Struggling with the start so came off it. The first day on it after your training I was much stronger, it was a huge improvement.

So thanks again Neil. I will be ordering another plan in the near future.’

Chris Russell 08.22


Andrew Barr flashes his former project grade after 12 weeks

‘My old redpoint grade is my new safe flash ... it's crazy!! :) 

In the middle of last year, I had to work on a 6b for 4 to 5 sessions then after your program, I flashed that grade and I have since gone on to redpoint 7a and done a bunch of routes around that inside and outdoors!! So, it's safe to say that I would love to get another program from you.

In short, I'm absolutely thrilled with the results!’

Andrew Barr 05.21

Andrew Barr reassesses the terrain with his new-found strength and fitness. .


Hal Wyatt’s post-match celebration after his sending spree in Leonidio!

Hal Wyatt jumps 3 onsight grades and projects first 7c grades after a 12 week plan

‘The trip to Leonidio was one of the best I've been on, hitting personal bests including first 7a onsight, first 7b onsight and first 7c redpoint. Since finishing the plan and putting it to use in Greece…

…my sport climbing feels like it's improved permanently.

I'm primarily climbing indoors at the moment at EICA where my onsight grade has stayed consistently at 7b, even with some time off. The few outdoor sessions I have had this year have been really productive. My approach to outdoor climbing has improved a lot with my grade staying at the mid to high 7's, even on single days out.’

Hal Wyatt 01.21

 

‘So I’ve finished your training program. My fingers feel so much stronger, which has me feeling way more confident while climbing. I went from feeling nervous on a 5.9/5.10a to warming up on 5.10c and I’m almost assistance-free on my 10mm deadhangs (I could barely do 25mm before). The diligent mobility work has me feeling a million times more flexible and able to use my hips better on the wall. All in all an amazing program. It was very well thought out and targeted the important stuff, while still being relatively simple. The route in this photo is Mardi Gras 11a at Lake Louise, Canada. A route I would not even have considered climbing before your program.‘

Sydney Braaten 06.20

 
 
 

Neil’s Climbing

Get inspired to achieve your climbing goals by following Neil on a climbing travelogue. This section includes all his first ascents and hardest repeats in a range of climbing styles including sport, traditional, DWS and winter.

 
Abseiling in to make the first ascent of Olympiad 8b, Pembroke, UK in 2012.Photo: Copyright Lukasz Warzecha

Abseiling in to make the first ascent of Olympiad 8b, Pembroke, UK in 2012.

Photo: Copyright Lukasz Warzecha

Profile and press

Described in 2002 by Climber magazine as 'one of Britain's leading all-rounders', Neil Gresham has been at the cutting edge of the British scene for over two decades and has put up new routes all over the world in a wide range of styles.

Freakshow 8c, Kilnsey, UK. First ascent in 2015.Photo: Copyright Lukasz Warzecha

Freakshow 8c, Kilnsey, UK. First ascent in 2015.

Photo: Copyright Lukasz Warzecha

Significant Ascents

Selected first ascents and significant repeats

See this section for the highlights of Neil's first ascents and significant repeats from around the world in disciplines ranging from sport to trad, ice and DWS.

First Ascent of Mr. Freeze WI 6 in Iceland in 2007..Photo: Copyright Alastair Lee

First Ascent of Mr. Freeze WI 6 in Iceland in 2007..

Photo: Copyright Alastair Lee

First Ascents

From around the globe

Travel the climbing globe with Neil and get inspired. This section contains more information and the backstory behind many of his favourite first ascents in destinations ranging from Cuba to Kalymnos, Mongolia, Vietnam, Brazil, China, Iceland and Norway..

Equilibrium E10 7a, Burbage, UK. Second ascent in 2002.Photo: Mike Robertson

Equilibrium E10 7a, Burbage, UK. Second ascent in 2002.

Photo: Mike Robertson

Selected Repeats

This section contains details and photos of Neil's best repeat ascents, including some of the UK's most notorious trad routes and also his epic repeat of the mythical 'Welsh Triple Crown / King of the Pass' Challenge in 2013. 

Making the top 10 at the DWS competition at the Quay in Exeter, UK in 2016.Photo: Copyright Quay Climbing Centre

Making the top 10 at the DWS competition at the Quay in Exeter, UK in 2016.

Photo: Copyright Quay Climbing Centre

Competitions

'For me, competitions have always been about fun, primarily because I've never been any good at them, and I've always gravitated towards unusual events such as the Ice World Cup and the DWS comps in the UK.'

NG

The Abyss Pembroke 7b S3. Second ascent in 2014.Photo: Wojtek Kozakeiwicz / LW Images

The Abyss Pembroke 7b S3. Second ascent in 2014.

Photo: Wojtek Kozakeiwicz / LW Images

Blog and Gallery

See this section for tales and photos of Neil's latest exploits.

Coming soon…