More about Neil’s training plan service
Are you having difficulty fitting climbing into a busy schedule and keen to make the most effective use of your training time?
Maybe your climbing has stagnated and you’re looking for fresh ideas, direction and motivation to boost you to the next level?
Perhaps you’re training for a particular project or you have a trip in the diary, with limited time to prepare.
Sometimes it can feel like pure guesswork when devising your own plan and attempting to make sense of all the conflicting info online. So why not leave it in the hands of one of the world’s leading experts, who has over 30 years of experience?
A personalised training program from Neil Gresham could be just what you need to turn your climbing goals into a reality.
It’s vital to stretch your upper limbs in order to avoid injury and maintain functional mobility. Neil’s programs will explain exactly how.
Photos: Ben Grubb
It's crucial to train the antagonist (opposition) muscles to prevent injuries, but which exercises and protocols are most effective and how frequently should you? Neil will base your plan on your needs and use your benchmarks to calibrate the load levels in select exercises.
‘Before I started training with Neil I was getting stuck on 7a+. His training program really targeted my weak points and 6 months on, I’ve just climbed my first 7c+ and am getting close to 8a.’
Jort Robertus
‘I have become a new climber thanks to your program!’
Volko Radzik
‘I'm absolutely blown away by how comprehensive this is.’
Dave Heaton
It helps so much to have a plan to guide you through your gym sessions. There's no better way to make sure you're doing the right thing and staying on track. Photo: Ian Parnell
‘It has been a major psychological boost for me to have a tailored, structured and detailed plan from someone I know is a genuine expert. I've seen continued improvements across strength, endurance and recovery and my bouldering has bumped from 6b to 6c, despite being so busy. This is a game-changer for me, and exciting to know I can keep the ball rolling.’
Matt Evans 11.22
Key advantages of Neil’s personalised training plans…
Trusted since 1994 …3000+ climbers trained - Neil was the first British coach and one of the first in the world to offer online personalised training plans. He has been running the service successfully for over 3 decades.
Ultra-personalised - Neil’s plans are widely regarded as the most personalised out there. He tailors the overall structure to the ability, strengths & weaknesses of each individual. He then uses your grades and benchmarks to tune each session (ie: he suggests grades and load levels for key climbing sessions and exercises). NB: Few coaches do this!
Goal focused - programs can be for all-round performance or geared towards different climbing styles: bouldering, sport, trad or competitions, trips or projects.
Data supported - Neil’s methodology is now verified using an advanced statistical procedure. He uses data collected from 3000+ clients to help him check the sequences and sessions, which he selects for each individual, to make sure his plans as effective as possible. He avoids using the data pool to compare the strength metrics of individuals as he believes that the results can be misleading.
Practical, functional and fun: No baffling mumbo-jumbo or pseudo-science; the plans are user-friendly, easy to follow and based on robust methodology, which works!
Time-efficient - Advice is given for shortening sessions and saving time during busy periods.
Informative - The plans contain a wealth of useful information and so many of Neil’s clients have reported that the plans have really taught them how to train effectively.
Adaptable - Neil will always provide options so that the program is flexible and you don’t feel trapped. For example, the order of some sessions can be swapped and home hangboard routines are provided for days when you can’t get to the climbing gym, as well as advice on fitting in crag climbing.
Holistic - Neil understands the pitfalls of placing excessive emphasis on physical training and losing focus on technique and mindset. His plans include bespoke hacks for key skills, and a wealth of supporting advice to ensure that you maintain an holistic approach.
Bouldering is the most important strength training method for climbing, but how hard and steep should you go and how should you mix in other exercises such as hangboarding? A training program from Neil will answer these key questions. Photo: Ben Grubb
Up-to-date - Neil’s methodology is constantly evolving. His methods are derived from the coal-face of coaching and verified using a combination of the latest research and a vast data pool, which he has collected over the years.
Results delivered - The proof is the thousands of climbers who achieved their dream goals and enjoyed the process! See the enormous list of testimonials on this site.
Neil putting his methods into practice on the first ascent of Lexicon E11 in the Lake District in 2022. A route which is widely regarded as one of the hardest in England and Wales. Photo: Alastair Lee
As a coach, Neil is renowned for being down-to-earth and capable of understanding individual needs. Photo: Rick Smee
About Neil Gresham
Described by British bouldering champion, Leah Crane as ‘a leading authority on coaching in the UK and the ultimate international ambassador for the sport’, Neil is one of the original pioneers, who has developed many of the methods, which are used widely by coaches today. He is also an accomplished high-level all-round athlete who has made over a hundred first ascents around the globe and climbed 8c+, E11 trad and WI9.
Neil wasn’t one of those natural talents who hit high grades overnight; he played the long game and climbed his hardest routes in his late 40s and early 50s, so he understands the challenges of the average climber.
Neil’s long list of achievements in coaching spans across 3 decades. He was the first British coach to write training articles for national magazines (back in 1993) and has been the regular columnist for over 6 publications and websites worldwide, including Rock & Ice, Klettern and UKC.com. His ‘Masterclass’ technique films were the first of their kind on YouTube and are still regarded as the go-to learning resource.
For more info, see Neil’s full biog and routes list on this site.
Putting his methods to the test - Neil on the first ascent of Sabotage 8c+, Malham Cove in 2016. Photo: Ian Parnell
History of Neil Gresham’s training programs:
Neil Gresham started writing training programs for friends and clients back in 1992 and went on to become the first British coach to establish an online personalised training program service in 1994. Over the years he has produced thousands of customised plans for climbers of all ages and ability levels and he has vast experience when it comes to understanding how different climbers respond to different formulae.
Neil’s methodology is constantly evolving and he frequently takes time out for research and to update the service. For example, in 2004, he closed the service for 5 months in order to analyse the data collected from the 3000+ climbers he has trained.
Neil has trained 6 British champions and a large number of elites over the years (including James Pearson & Aidan Roberts). He knows most of the well-known top climbers personally but never uses them to promote his training plans as he believes that the requirements of intermediates are so different. He specialises in working with those climbing F6a – 7c and believes strongly that the workload of a training program should always be adapted to the level and lifestyle constraints of each individual. As a father of two, with a busy work-life himself, Neil really understands the need for time-efficient training. The proof lies in his own climbing (having achieved PBs in sport and trad climbing in his late 40s) and also in all the climbers who’ve destroyed their goals after following his plans.
SEE BELOW AND GET INSPIRED……!