Personalised training plans from Britain’s most experienced climbing coach

Welcome to Neil Gresham Training!

EXCITING NEWS: Neil has officially relaunched his newly updated, data supported training plan service!

You can order a plan now and the current waiting time is 3 working days.

Get inspired and achieve your goals with a personalised training plan from one of the original pioneers of performance coaching for climbing.

Neil specialises in working with intermediate climbers (V2-6 / F6a-7c)

Trusted since 1994, with 3000+ climbers successfully trained, Neil started more than 15 years before the other coaching companies.

No baffling mumbo-jumbo - just practical, functional training which delivers results!

Read more about how it works, or just click below to order your plan

‘I’ve done a few training plans in the past with some of the well-known outfits and your plans have blown them out of the water when it comes to detail, variation, and most importantly - sending results! I highly recommend them to all of my friends. Feel free to quote me on that!’

Thorsteinn Cameron 8.24.

Described by Steve McClure as ‘Britain’s most well-known and respected rock climbing coach’, Neil has developed many of the methods, which are used widely by coaches today. Neil was the first British coach to write training articles for national magazines (back in 1993) and has been the regular columnist for over 6 publications and websites worldwide, including Rock & Ice, Klettern and UKC.com. His ‘Masterclass’ technique films were the first of their kind on YouTube and are still regarded as the go-to learning resource.

Neil’s manifesto:

• Training plans should make climbers BETTER and not just stronger. See the long list of testimonials from climbers who’ve improved several grades after following Neil’s plans.

• Training should be tailored to the individual and take into account their level, strengths, weaknesses and goals. Hundreds have commented that Neil’s plans are the most personalised on the market. See examples here.

• Quality. So often we see intermediates following high-volume plans, which look like they were produced for elites and the result is frustration or burn-out. Neil understands that most people have limited time and the importance of preserving energy levels, which is why he makes every second of the training count.

• Data support - Having conducted an extensive research study into the data collected from 3000+ clients who improved after his training, Neil’s methodology is now verified using an advanced statistical procedure. He doesn’t believe that it is helpful to compare the strength metrics of different climbers but instead, he uses data to help him select the best sequences and sessions for each individual, to ensure that the resulting training plan is most suited to their needs.

• Experience. Neil believes that the skills required to produce effective training plans can only be developed by working directly with people for many years.

• No clever marketing. Neil doesn’t use top climbers to promote his plans because their requirements are so different to the average climber. He lets his happy customers spread the word. (see examples here).

• Above all, Neil believes that training should be simple, intuitive, as safe as possible and fun!

‘Just wanted to say thanks for the plan, it was great and I'm feeling much stronger. I'm much more solid climbing 7c boulders and am managing 7b+ in a session, which is a big improvement. The endurance side of things has been fantastic as I've been able to send some power-endurance boulders that I wasn't close to before the plan.’

Eliot Weir 01.25.

You can also use this site to order Neil’s highly acclaimed nutrition guide, Nutrition for Climbers , co authored by experienced sports nutritionist, Glen Burrows. This is the ideal tool to ensure that you maximise the returns from your training.

In the coaching section on this site, you’ll find more info about Neil’s 1-to-1 coaching, group masterclasses and other services such as Physio referral.

Neil has been at the cutting edge of the British climbing scene for over two decades, performing at a high standard in disciplines ranging from sport climbing to deep water soloing, winter and traditional climbing. Neil’s long list of hard first ascents around the globe are documented here in his new routes log. His 2012 Pembroke route Olympiad, remains the hardest Deep Water Solo in Britain. In his late 40s and early 50s as a father of two, Neil climbed the hardest trad route of his career, Lexicon E11 7a in the Lake District and also his two hardest sport routes with first ascents of Sabotage 8c+ at Malham and Freakshow 8c at Kilnsey. He puts it all down to motivation and making every second of his training count.

Neil is sponsored by La Sportiva, Petzl, Osprey Europe, Kendal Wall, London Climbing Centres and Jumbo eyewear.

Instagram: @neil.gresham