…..for climbers of all levels, from V2 TO V12!
Are you having difficulty fitting climbing into a busy schedule and keen to make the most effective use of your training time?
Maybe your climbing has stagnated and you’re looking for fresh ideas, direction and motivation to boost you to the next level?
Perhaps you’re training for a particular project or you have a trip in the diary, with limited time to prepare.
Sometimes it can feel like pure guesswork when attempting to make your own plan, so why not leave it in the hands of one of the world’s leading experts, who has over 25 years of experience?
Photo: Ben Grubb / Stronghold
A personalised training program from Neil Gresham could be just what you need to turn your climbing goals into a reality.
‘I have become a new climber thanks to your program!’
Volko Radzik 2009
‘Having struggled at 6c, after following the program I am now cruising 7as and feel stronger and more motivated than ever before!’
Richard B 2011
Training programs are based on your response to a detailed questionnaire, which is copied below and which can also be sent out on email.
Neil’s personalised training programs are…
Tailored to your needs - All programs are geared specifically to the ability level, weaknesses, strengths, and lifestyle constraints of each individual.
Goal - focused - programs can be for all-round performance or geared towards different climbing styles: bouldering, sport, trad or competitions, trips or projects.
Time-efficient - Advice is given for shortening sessions and saving time during busy periods.
Easy to follow - The programs are user-friendly, with minimum tech-jargon. Detailed descriptions are provided for all exercises.
Adaptable - Neil will always provide options so that the program is flexible and you don’t feel trapped. For example, home fingerboard routines will be provided for days when you can’t get to the climbing wall, as well as advice on fitting in crag climbing.
Mega detailed! - Plans feature an overview of the main training phases, weekly plans and detailed session plans for every session, including warm-ups and cool-downs.
Based on over 25 years of experience. Neil was the first British coach (and one of the first in the world) to offer a training program service. Hundreds of climbers have improved with one of his plans.
How the service works
If you would like to proceed, please copy and fill out the questionnaire below and email it to firstname.lastname@example.org. Alternatively, please send a request for it to be sent to you as a Word Document or PDF.
On receipt of the completed questionnaire, Neil will then send you payment details so you can pay for your program in advance by transfer or PayPal. Once payment is received your program will be sent to you within 7 working days.
A training plan includes ALL climbing-based sessions, fingerboard routines, supportive conditioning & antagonists, cardio and stretching sessions, detailed advice on performance goals and training goals and more!
8 weeks: £60 with 1 x Q&A feedback session with Neil (OR £80 with 2 x feedback sessions)
12 weeks: £70 with 1 x Q&A feedback session with Neil (OR £90 with 2 x Q&A feedback sessions)
16 weeks: £80 with 1 x Q&A feedback session with Neil (OR £95 with 2 x Q&A feedback sessions)
Pre-conditions for acceptance of personalised training programs:
In order to be eligible for a personalised program, you must meet the following requirements:
You must have been climbing for over 18 months.
You must be able boulder V2 and top-rope F6a.
You must be free from injury, apart from exceptionally minor tweaks, which are not aggravated by training.
You must not be suffering from illness or a medical condition.
You must be able to train a minimum of 3 times a week during the allocated training period (whether at the climbing wall or on a home facility, eg: a fingerboard).
The training period should be relatively clear from interruptions (the odd brief work or climbing trip is ok)
You must not participate in other sports that are excessively demanding on energy levels during the training period.
Juniors (U17s) can apply but written consent from a parent or guardian must be sent in on email.
You must accept our terms and conditions, namely that climbing is a potentially dangerous sport and that climbing injuries can occur at any time, regardless of correct practice. Neil Gresham can not be held responsible for injuries incurred.
Access to facilities:
You must have access to the following facilities:
Modern bouldering wall or ‘woody board’ with a variety of different holds and angles ranging between 20 and 50 degrees overhanging.
Campus-board (advanced climbers only)
Circuit-board OR easy bouldering wall (eg 5 – 20 degrees overhanging) OR leading wall (n/a for boulderers)
Stretch-bands, rubber forearm extensor trainer or light dumbels
TRX/suspension straps – advisable but not essential
1. CONTACT DETAILS
Are you injured or suffering from any relevant medical condition? (please note, if yes, then we are unable to issue a training program)
2.4) Body type/build:(thin, medium,stocky)
3. CLIMBING HISTORY
3.1) How long have you been climbing?
3.2) What types of climbing have you been into historically?
Boulder, sport onsight, sport redpoint, trad, competitions
4. REQUIRED TRAINING PROGRAM
8 weeks (including 1 Q&A feedback contact)
8 weeks (including 2 x Q&A feedback contacts)
12 weeks (including 1 x Q&A feedback contact)
12 weeks (including 2 x Q&A feedback contacts)
16 weeks (including 1 x Q&A feedback contact)
16 weeks (including 2 x Q&A feedback contacts)
Please note that the period of training must be relatively un-interrupted in terms of time-out or long climbing trips (weekend climbing is fine).
5. PURPOSE OF THE PROGRAM
5.1) Which of the three themes below would you like the program to be aimed at:
i) Improving your weaknesses (whilst maintaining strengths)
ii) Preparation for a specific climbing trip or type of climbing.
iii) Making general improvements across a variety of different climbing disciplines, e.g. sport, bouldering and trad.
5.2) If you chose option ii) then please specify which discipline you would like to prepare for and if relevant, the crag/s you will be visiting and/or the given climbing style:
Bouldering (crag? / climbing style?)
Sport onsighting (crag? / climbing style?)
Sport redpointing (crag? / climbing style?)
Trad - (crag? / climbing style?
6. PERFORMANCE ASSESSMENT
Please give your currentcapability for the following, if relevant:
6.1) Indoor bouldering (V grades)
Hardest problem after 6 – 12 tries
Hardest problem after several sessions of work
6.2) Indoor leading (French grades)
Onsight / flash
Redpoint in 1 or 2 sessions
Please rank the following performance variables in order, with the one you do best first and the one you do worst last:
6.3) Angle of climbing
Slab, Vertical, gently overhanging, very overhanging, roof
6.4) Length of climbing
Boulder problems, short sport routes and redpoints, longer sport routes and onsights
Finger strength, arm strength, core strength
6.6) Movement style:
Static movement, dynamic movement
Full crimp (fingers fully bent, thumb locked over), half crimp (fingers at 90 degrees), pocket / drag / hang (fingers open), pinch, sloper
6.8) General Aerobic fitness
Please rate as follows: poor, satisfactory, good, very good
7. TRAINING FACILITIES
7.1) What range of facilities will you have access to for the duration of the program?
i) Climbing wall only
ii) Climbing wall + home set-up
iii) Home set up only *
* If you only have access to a home facility, you will need a woody-board for bouldering (and circuits if you’re training for sport or trad). If you only have a fingerboard and don’t have access to a climbing wall then you need to apply for ‘fingerboard-only’ training program.
7.2) Do you have access to a leading wall and (if relevant) do you wish to use this for endurance sessions?
8. HEALTH & LIFESTYLE FACTORS:
8.1) Do you eat a relatively healthy, balanced diet?
8.2) Do you take any of the following sports nutritional supplements?
Protein (amino acids or shakes)
Supplements for joint health (eg: Glucosamine)
8.3) How many cups of tea/coffee per day?
8.4) How much alcohol do you consume per week? (number of units or description)
8.5) Do you smoke and if so, how many per day?
8.6) How much sleep do you get per night on average?
8.7) Would you say that any associated stresses with your employment role are physical, mental or both?
8.8) How would you rate the level of stress and/or fatigue from your job?
1 = low stress and fatigue / 5 = maximum stress and fatigue
Please feel free to finish here! Thanks for taking the time to fill it in!
9. BENCHMARK TESTS (OPTIONAL)
It is not necessary to perform these tests, but if you do it may enable your fingerboard routine program to be slightly more targeted. You will need a Beastmaker 1000 and/or 2000 fingerboard and/or a pull-up bar. If you are between levels then experiment with the tests at the upper and lower levels and supply results from whichever level best fits.
Do not take these tests if you don’t know how to do the exercises safely and correctly. Always warm-up
Level 1 tests: V2 - V4/5 climbers
2-arm, 4-finger, half-crimp deadhang - Beastmaker 1000 bottom corner slots, to failure (time in secs)
2-arm pull-ups on a bar or fingerboard jugs, to failure, (no. of reps)
Straight leg-raise on a bar or fingerboard jugs, to failure, (no. of reps)
Level 2 tests: V4/5 - V6/7 climbers
2-arm, 4-finger, half-crimp deadhang - Beastmaker 2000 bottom corner slots or Beastmaker 1000 top corner slots, to failure (time in secs).
2-arm pull-ups on a bar or fingerboard jugs, to failure (no. of reps) and/or 1-arm 90 degree lock-off, for each arm, to failure (time in secs)
Straight leg-raise on a bar or fingerboard jugs, to failure (no. of reps) and / or front-lever with 1 leg bent (knee on chest), to failure (time in secs)
Level 3 tests: V6/7- V9/10 climbers
2-arm, ‘front 3’ fingers (index, middle, ring), half-crimp deadhang - Beastmaker 2000 bottom corner slots or Beastmaker 1000 top corner slots, to failure (time in secs)
2-arm, ‘back 3’ fingers (middle, ring, pinky), half-crimp deadhang - Beastmaker 2000 bottom corner slots or Beastmaker 1000 top corner slots, to failure (time in secs)
1-arm 90 degree lock-off on a bar or fingerboard jugs, to failure, for each arm (time in secs) and/or 1-arm pull-up, for each arm, to failure (no. of reps)
Front lever with 1 leg bent (knee on chest), to failure (time in secs) and/or front lever with both legs straight, to failure (time in secs)
Thank you for taking the time to fill this in!
History of Neil Gresham’s training programs:
Neil Gresham started writing training programs for friends and clients back in 1992 and went on to become the first British coach to establish an online personalised training program service in1994. Over the years he has produced hundreds of customised plans for climbers of all ages and ability levels and he has vast experience when it comes to understanding how different climbers respond to different formulae. He has set programs for elite climbers such as Matt Cousins, James Pearson, Gaz Parry, John Dunne, Leah Crane and Aidan Roberts. He has also worked with world champion para athlete Leonora Volpe. However,t Neil specializes in working with intermediates, namely those climbing F6a – 7b. He believes strongly that the workload of a training program should always be adapted to the level and time constraints of each individual. As a father of two, with a busy work-life himself, Neil understands the need for time-efficient training. In addition to his long list of successful clients, Neil climbed his first 8c and 8c+/9a in his mid 40s, during the busiest periods of his life, which is perhaps the ultimate proof of his methods.
Neil’s training program successes:
‘First of all, thank you very much, the program has been excellent! Ideal for fitting in with my schedule and really well balanced. I was surprised how difficult the training was at times yet I rarely finished a session totally ruined. My route grade indoors at Kendal has increased around two grades already.’
Duncan C 02.17
‘The training has been helping and I think I've got a grade better in 4 months. Not too bad. Got a 7a+ the other day. Felt ok too. Really enjoyed being more dynamic and strong.’
David B 02.17
‘Thank you Neil for your services. You are not kidding about there being a lot of content in the program. Gives me faith in the attention to detail and value for money!’
Phil L 01.17
‘Brilliant! Thank you! Nice and clear, very helpful. Exactly what I was looking for. I tried it out at TCA last night and it felt great to make a start get stuck in. I can tell a few weeks of that will get my fitness up for sure! Really looking forward to getting down to Yorkshire.’
Lucy B 12.16
‘I just wanted to let you know that the program has been a great success for me. I recently sent my first 7a boulder problem on gritstone and am feeling much stronger. I was hoping that you might be able to write me another plan to start when I get back from Fontainebleau?’
Tom W 8.16
‘I have really enjoyed the program and certainly feel that it has improved my climbing, strength and overall fitness. I’m definitely working more on overhanging routes and having success in the V5 and V6 range, that wouldn't have been possible without the program.’
Cliff F 8.16
‘All in all very happy. Thanks again for the ‘New Way’. I feel really motivated and confident about my future as a climber again.’
Craig H 8.16
‘The training program is very detailed and contains a natural flow that is easy to follow. I will look forward to sharing updates with you.’
Apoorv K 7.16
‘Just a quick email to let you know I ticked Axle Attack 7a+ yesterday. It went pretty smoothly and I'm psyched to push a bit further with some harder redpoints. Your plan definitely helped me get there and I definitely benefitted massively from having a more structured approach to training. Thanks again.’
Steve M 4.16
’Neil, I can't thank you enough for your help and guidance. I find the warm-up routine you gave me allows me to climb more consistently and confidently at harder grades, and the guidance on how to specify training to particular problems is really motivating! I ended up spending 4 days trying Gorilla Warfare at Curbar and finally sent it on the last day! Thanks so much!’
Brian T 4.16
‘Really good so far. The 3-week strength/power and then 4-week endurance phase is exactly what I was looking for. Surprised (in a good way) how very detailed it is. Very good value for money! All the best.’
Filipe D 02.16
‘The program is brilliant. Very comprehensive and I'm getting to grips with the way it's laid out.’
Russell B 09.15
‘The program is far better than I expected! The detail is unbelievable. It is a product that I think lots of climbers would really, really benefit from.’
Dave C 12.15
‘First of all, WOW! What an impressive document. I’ll look through it and write to you if I have any questions. Really happy I contacted you.’
Marcus L 12.15