Are you having difficulty fitting climbing into a busy schedule and keen to make the most effective use of your training time?
Maybe your climbing has stagnated or you have something that’s holding you back and you’re looking for fresh ideas, direction and motivation to boost you to the next level?
Perhaps you’re training for a particular project or you have a trip in the diary, with limited time to prepare.
Sometimes it can feel like pure guesswork when attempting to make your own plan, so why not leave it in the hands of one of the world’s leading experts, who has over two decades of experience?
Photo: Ian Parnell
A personalised training program from Neil Gresham could be just what you need to turn your climbing goals into a reality.
‘I have become a new climber thanks to your program!’
Volko Radzik 2009
‘Having struggled at 6c, after following the program I am now cruising 7as and feel stronger and more motivated than ever before!’
Richard B 2011
Training programs are based on your responses to a detailed questionnaire, which is available on request. You can also visit Neil for a 1-to-1 assessment session or benchmark test, although these are optional.
Key components of Neil’s training programs
All programmes are based on response to a detailed questionnaire and are aimed at the ability level, weaknesses, strengths, goals and lifestyle constraints of each individual.
Programmes can also be based on the results of optional benchmarking tests. See ‘benchmarking’ on this site.
Programmes can be for all-round performance or geared towards different climbing styles: bouldering, sport, trad or competitions. They can also be targeted towards goals, weaknesses, trips or projects.
You can choose between a full training programme (which includes all aspects of training) or a ‘fingerboard-only’ training programmes. Fingerboard programmes include advice on how to fit the sessions in with other climbing and training.
Neil’s approach is to provide options so that the program is flexible and you don’t feel trapped. For example, home fingerboard routines will be provided for days when you can’t get to the climbing wall and advice on fitting in crag climbing is also included.
Advice is also included for shortening sessions and saving time during busy periods.
The programs are user-friendly and easy to follow. Detailed descriptions are included for all prescribed exercises but tech-jargon is minimized.
Plans feature an overview of the main training phases, weekly plans / day sequences and detailed session plans for every session, including warm-ups and cool-downs.
How the service works
If you would like to proceed, please email a request to Neil and he will send you a pre-training questionnaire.
On receipt of the completed questionnaire, Neil will then send you details so you can pay for your program in advance by transfer or PayPal. Once payment is received your program will be sent to you within 7 working days.
Full training programs (includes everything; i.e.: all climbing-based sessions and rest day training, e.g.: antagonists, cardio and stretching)
8 weeks: £55
12 weeks: £65
16 weeks: £75
8 weeks: £50
12 weeks: £60
Contact during the program
Prices include a round of questions at a point of your choice during the program.
Pre-conditions for acceptance of personalised training programs:
In order to be eligible for a personalised program, you must meet the following requirements:
You must have been climbing for over 18 months.
You must be able to lead F6a routes or boulder V2.
You must be free from injury, apart from exceptionally minor tweaks, which are not aggravated by training.
You must not be suffering from illness or a medical condition.
You must be able to train a minimum of 3 times a week during the allocated training period (whether at the climbing wall or on a home facility, eg: a fingerboard).
The training period should be relatively clear from interruptions (the odd brief work or climbing trip is ok)
You must not participate in other sports that are excessively demanding on energy levels during the training period.
Juniors (U17s) can apply but written consent from a parent or guardian must be sent in on email.
You must accept our terms and conditions, namely that climbing is a potentially dangerous sport and that climbing injuries can occur at any time, regardless of correct practice. Neil Gresham can not be held responsible for injuries incurred.
Access to facilities:
You must have access to the following facilities:
Modern bouldering wall or ‘woody board’ with a variety of different holds and angles ranging between 20 and 50 degrees overhanging.
Campus-board (advanced climbers only)
Circuit-board OR easy bouldering wall (eg 5 – 20 degrees overhanging) OR leading wall (n/a for boulderers)
Therabands, rubber forearm extensor trainer or light dumbels
TRX/suspension straps – advisable but not essential
History of Neil Gresham’s training programs:
Neil Gresham started writing training programs for friends and clients back in 1993 and went on to become the first British coach to establish an online personalised training program service in1995. Over the years he has produced hundreds of customised plans for climbers of all ages and ability levels and he has vast experience when it comes to understanding how different climbers respond to different formulae. He has set programs for elite climbers such as James Pearson, Gaz Parry, John Dunne, Leah Crane and Aidan Roberts, yet Neil specializes in working with intermediates, namely those climbing F6a – 7b. He believes strongly that the workload of a training program should always be adapted to the level and time constraints of each individual. As a father of two, with a busy work-life himself, Neil understands the need for time-efficient training. In addition to his long list of successful clients, Neil climbed his first 8c and 8c+ in his mid 40s, during the busiest periods of his life, which is perhaps the ultimate proof of his methods.
Neil’s training program successes:
‘First of all, thank you very much, the program has been excellent! Ideal for fitting in with my schedule and really well balanced. I was surprised how difficult the training was at times yet I rarely finished a session totally ruined. My route grade indoors at Kendal has increased around two grades already.’
Duncan C 02.17
‘The training has been helping and I think I've got a grade better in 4 months. Not too bad. Got a 7a+ the other day. Felt ok too. Really enjoyed being more dynamic and strong.’
David B 02.17
‘Thank you Neil for your services. You are not kidding about there being a lot of content in the program. Gives me faith in the attention to detail and value for money!’
Phil L 01.17
‘Brilliant! Thank you! Nice and clear, very helpful. Exactly what I was looking for. I tried it out at TCA last night and it felt great to make a start get stuck in. I can tell a few weeks of that will get my fitness up for sure! Really looking forward to getting down to Yorkshire.’
Lucy B 12.16
‘I just wanted to let you know that the program has been a great success for me. I recently sent my first 7a boulder problem on gritstone and am feeling much stronger. I was hoping that you might be able to write me another plan to start when I get back from Fontainebleau?’
Tom W 8.16
‘I have really enjoyed the program and certainly feel that it has improved my climbing, strength and overall fitness. I’m definitely working more on overhanging routes and having success in the V5 and V6 range, that wouldn't have been possible without the program.’
Cliff F 8.16
‘All in all very happy. Thanks again for the ‘New Way’. I feel really motivated and confident about my future as a climber again.’
Craig H 8.16
‘The training program is very detailed and contains a natural flow that is easy to follow. I will look forward to sharing updates with you.’
Apoorv K 7.16
‘Just a quick email to let you know I ticked Axle Attack 7a+ yesterday. It went pretty smoothly and I'm psyched to push a bit further with some harder redpoints. Your plan definitely helped me get there and I definitely benefitted massively from having a more structured approach to training. Thanks again.’
Steve M 4.16
’Neil, I can't thank you enough for your help and guidance. I find the warm-up routine you gave me allows me to climb more consistently and confidently at harder grades, and the guidance on how to specify training to particular problems is really motivating! I ended up spending 4 days trying Gorilla Warfare at Curbar and finally sent it on the last day! Thanks so much!’
Brian T 4.16
‘Really good so far. The 3-week strength/power and then 4-week endurance phase is exactly what I was looking for. Surprised (in a good way) how very detailed it is. Very good value for money! All the best.’
Filipe D 02.16
‘The program is brilliant. Very comprehensive and I'm getting to grips with the way it's laid out.’
Russell B 09.15
‘The program is far better than I expected! The detail is unbelievable. It is a product that I think lots of climbers would really, really benefit from.’
Dave C 12.15
‘First of all, WOW! What an impressive document. I’ll look through it and write to you if I have any questions. Really happy I contacted you.’
Marcus L 12.15