DWS First ascents - Majorca
It was thanks to a lead from local activist, Miguel Riera, that we had the great fortune of being first on the scene at the mighty Covo Del Diablo in October 2001. Our team consisted of Mike Robertson, Tim Emmett, Gav Symonds, Ken Palmer, Grant Farquhar, Klem Loskott, and we set to work, racing across juggy roofs and up powering up pocketed walls. We could scarcely believe the quality of the climbing and to this day, Diablo still holds it's reputation as one of the best (if not the best) DWS crags in the world.
Reference: ‘Deep Water’ guidebook by Mike Robertson - Rockfax 2007 .
Ejector Seat 7c Covo Del Diabolo, 10.01
Guidebook quote: ‘Another slice of utopia’ - ‘Deep Water’ by Mike Robertson, 2007
The steep pocketed wall to the right of Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels features a signature crux dyno to gain the crucial exit holds. This was the first time I had encountered a dyno on a DWS and I took several splashdowns before finally sending it on the last day of the trip after getting over a nasty bout of food poisoning.
The Lobster 6c+ Cova del Diablo, 10.01
Guidebook quote: ‘One of the best routes in Majorca ….Climbing just can’t get much better than this!’ - Deep Water’ by Mike Robertson, 2007:
The Lobster climbs straight up the leaning wall and capping overhang in the centre of the cove. During our first exploratory trip, our host, Miguel Riera had estimated that this route would be 8a+, so I set out on it not expecting to get very far. I was surprised to make it to the top overhang and expected the worst as I reached around and searched for holds. But sure enough, my hand sank into a huge bucket and I swung round in disbelief, whooping with joy. That said, the top overhang has been the scene of some epic splashdowns.
Igunanadon 7b Covo Del Diablo. 10.01
Guidebook quote ‘A mega-classic.’ - ‘Deep Water’ by Mike Robertson, 2007:
Iguanadon weaves its way through some ludicrously steep terrain in the big sea-cave on the left-hand side of the crag. Every hold is a jug, but prepare to do battle with greasy conditions and bird-excrement! The route starts on the right-hand side of the huge cave and hand-traverses out leftwards along a rail. This leads to a series of ‘hueco’ buckets and onwards to the sanctuary of the upper ledge. You can either finish by jumping in or taking on the challenge of Microdot 7b. Early Spring or late Autumn conditions are preferable when temperatures are cooler, especially with an on-shore breeze.
Microdot 7b 8.02
A logical finishing pitch to Iguanadon, which has a highball, scary feel. From the ledge above the cave, climb the hanging groove on the left.
Calamares 6b+ 10.01
A worthwhile introduction to the cove and the obvious warm-up for those wanting to get on the harder stuff. From the base of the descent ramp on the right-hand side of the crag, the route traverses leftwards along a line of pockets and jugs, approximately 6m above sea-level then follows a faint groove diagonally leftwards, before trending right to finish.
Whiplash 7c, Cova del Diablo 10.01
A powerful route, which starts as for Afroman but heads out rightwards via a sequency traverse along the lip of the cave. This leads to a white, heart-shaped shield and an easier rightwards finish. A variation has been done, which climbs directly out to join the original line at the point where it turns the lip.