Neil Gresham - Coaching Biog
Neil Gresham is widely regarded as one of the world's leading voices in performance coaching for climbing. He has been coaching and writing regular training articles for national magazines since 1993 and has pioneered many of the methods that are used widely by coaches today. Neil is the current training columnist for UKC.com and Rock & Ice in the USA. He has also authored a book on training ('How to Climb - Training', published by Rock & Ice in 2017) and co-authored a further three books. Neil has delivered coaching courses and seminars all over the world and has helped hundreds of climbers of all ages and ability levels to raise their game. When coaching, he draws heavily on his vast bank of climbing experience, having put up hard new routes in a variety of styles in over fifteen different countries. He has climbed E10 trad, WI 7 on ice and in 2016 he climbed his first 8c+ at the age of 45 when he made the first ascent of Sabotage 8c+ at Malham Cove. Neil puts all his successes down to hard work, motivation and refinement of his game. He believes that work and family commitments don’t need to limit our climbing goals provided we are focused and make the best possible use of our training time.
Coaching firsts and achievements
· Britain’s first regular training columnist for a national climbing magazine: ‘OTE’ 1993
· Britain’s first personalised training programme service since 1995.
· Britain’s first performance coaching holidays (Kalymnos & Fontainebleau) started in 2001 and run for 11 years.
· Pioneer of Britain’s first coaching qualification scheme ‘Masterclass Coaching Academy’ since 2004.
· Author of the popular instructional films on technique and training – ‘Masterclass’ Parts 1 & 2, 2006 - now a dedicated You-Tube Channel.
· Provider of coaching courses for the Alpine Guides Association in Kalymnos 2006 and further masterclass sessions for the Guides and AMI in 2008, 2011 and 2017.
· Coach to British junior champions: Leah Crane (1997-2001) Natalie Berry (2000-2002), Kitty Wallace (2003 – 2007), Aidan Roberts (2014-16). Training programmes for elite British senior climbers John Dunne, Gaz Parry and James Pearson.
‘There is no doubt that in the UK, Neil is by far the most well known and respected rock climbing coach, with his reputation spreading across the borders and into Europe and America. He is the voice of all the UK coaches and the person we all look to for advice in developing our own coaching services.’